Thursday, 19 May 2011

A Tale of Two Petticoats

Be still my beating heart... a post about underpinnings in my favourite decade of the 19th century: the 1820s!!!! So maligned, yet utterly beautiful in my opinion.

To my mind, the 1820s (the early to middle section) are the best of both worlds; we have the elegant, long line of the Regency in the skirt, and yet the waist begins its descent from the giddy heights of the under-bust, which continues into the Romantic period of the 1830s, leaving the viewer with a more flattering view of a lady's waist, and the welcome departure from shelf boobage.

I could quite happily continue about the stunning dresses and pelisses (oh, those pelisses!) of the 1820s, but first, we have to consider the underpinnings, don't we?

Wondering about what went on underneath dresses of the 1820s led me to a discovery in The History of Underclothes (C. W. & P. E. Cunnington, 1992), and that in turn on to the wonderful Platt Hall Costume Gallery, in Manchester City Galleries UK, where the petticoat mentioned and photographed in the book resides, along with ANOTHER 1820s petticoat!! 

Cotton Petticoat 1828-35 {Manchester City Galleries}
This beautiful cotton petticoat has embroidered net and moravian insertion lace frill around the neckline, piped armholes, 15 rows of cording or piping on the lower section of skirt, then a deep scalloped hem with open-work embroidery.

There are drawstrings at the top of the neckline, and at the waist. These fasten at the back, with 2 Dorset threaded white buttons, possibly Blandford Cartwheels or Cross Wheels.

The skirt section is made up of 5 panels- some are flared, some straight. They are gathered to the waistband.

There clearly aren't many examples of late 1820s and 1830s petticoats, as this one is mentioned in 4 books of mine. The dates of the petticoat vary with the printed dates of the books of course, but late 20s and early 30s seems spot on to me. This would have been worn with sleeve plumpers, chemise, stays, and small bustle, perhaps the 'Jean' bustle.

I have had much more trouble trying to find details for the second petticoat below:
Cotton Petticoat 1825-30 {Manchester City Galleries}

Here again the neckline is trimmed with open-work embroidery, and the petticoat has a drawstring at both the neck and waist, which presumably fastens at the back. The short sleeves also feature the open-work embroidery again, as does the hem of the petticoat.

There is a slit in the seam each side, for pockets.

I did wonder when I first saw this if it was an under-dress (due to it having the sleeves), which would have a net or sheer dress worn over the top, but most of those were made in silk.

I was trying to see what the deep band along the hem is, then found this paragraph in English Women's Clothing in the 19th Century (C. W. Cunnington, 1937)- 'An evening petticoat of muslin, with an attached bodice in the stomacher front style; short puffed sleeves. Above the hem, which is four feet wide, are seven narrow tucks.'  Could this be the one? The width of the hem (48") looks about correct to me.

The first, slightly later petticoat is just a dream. I could easily wear that as a dress in its own right! This is on my long list of 'one day I will try to make one for myself.' I have no underpinnings for the middle to late 1820s, having at present either Regency, or jumping straight into the 1830s, when the waist was at almost natural level again, with waisted, half petticoats. Wouldn't it be wonderful to try to make this one day?

with love,
Naomi

Sunday, 15 May 2011

Introduction to Historikal Modiste

Welcome to my corner of the Blogosphere!

I am SO excited to have finally found the time (somehow) to get this up and running!  As those who know me are well aware, I am not someone to whom the contemporary world and everything in it comes easily; and that includes the mind-boggling online world!

But here we go! :)

My plans and aims for this blog are many. There are a million and one things that interest me, and I cannot wait to get started. If you have similar interests and passions as myself, then I really do hope that you will enjoy reading this blog, and will happily continue on these wanderings into 19th century fashion and social history alongside me.

So what does interest me? First and foremost, the history of fashion. I have had a shop on Etsy which sells '19th Century Underpinnings, Accessories, & Nightwear', for nearly 16 months now.  Almost every waking minute of my day is spent working on orders, coming up with ideas for new items to be created and listed, and dreaming of the many pieces that I have on my 'wish-list' to make for myself.

 1830s 'Jean' Bustle from 'Historika'- my Etsy shop

But aside from all the practical aspects of dressmaking, I LOVE to read about historical fashion (obviously), and also social history.  As I sew, or am planning my next item of 19th century clothing, I am always wondering what were the women of this time actually doing? How did they live? What was happening in the world? Were the people content and happy, or were they living through the nightmare of war, of disease or of transition?


And so my main ideas for this blog will be to chat about my latest discoveries in the field of historical fashion (my main interest at the moment is the nineteenth century), I will be writing about the social history of that time, and I will also be sharing my latest projects for myself with you (at the moment I am in love with the transitional period of 1790s, and have so many projects sat sitting in my 'projects for Naomi' box).

Also, if I mange to make the time (and it is a big if), I plan to use this space to chat through my ideas for 'Your Wardrobe Unlock'd' and 'Foundations Revealed' yearly (or so) competitions. But, having seen 2 years come and go without my finding the time to enter, we'll have to see!!



My VERY favourite part of historical fashion are the underpinnings, or foundation garments.  I have always been utterly fascinated by each era's silhouette, and how it was formed. How does the skirt stand out like that? How does a woman sit down with that huge bustle? And then once I see how beautifully constructed, sewn, and embellished some of these pieces are, I find myself amazed. But even the boring, uncomfortable and down-right ugly articles of underpinnings, such as the cages, or frames, I find engrossing and thrilling. This is mainly why the nineteenth century calls to me like mermaids to a ship full of men. The rapid changes and transfigurations of that period in fashion mean that there is so much to discover, especially those pieces which were only around for a couple of years or so.

An illustration from 'Punch' in 1881, deriding a form of crinoline cage, the 'crinolette'.

But for now I shall sign off, and will be back in a few days with my first 'proper' post. I have heard of a lovely story about the philanthropists of New York city assisting Lancashire cotton workers here in the UK financially during the American Civil War, when cotton from the US was unable to reach the mills, and workers' families began to slowly starve through lack of work. I hope to find out much more about this intriguing story, and will share it with you when I am able.

Thank you for reading! :)

with love,
Naomi